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Visitors to all three of Europe's magnificent "Old Art Capitals:" Budapest, Prague and Vienna, remark that Budapest is the least westernized, the most true to its heritage. The Opera House, Basilica, Fisherman’s Bastion, regal museums, countless churches and stunning synagogues are examples of ornate and significant architecture.
The city is divided into 23 districts which are indicated by the Roman numerals in street addresses. The subway system is not only the oldest in Europe, easy to navigate, it’s visually oriented as well.
The main street is Andrassy ut with the landmark Opera House halfway down, City Park with its colonnade of statues, and Heroes' Square at the end. City Park is a beautiful urban oasis with lakes, a vast cross-section of architectural styles ranging from gothic castle buildings to the onion domed tile roofs of the Budapest Zoo and Botanical Garden’s famed Elephant House.
Exploring will also lead you to the Castle District up in the hills where you will find several of Europe’s finest museums and the stately Royal Palace. This region is accessed by the symbol of the city, the Medieval Chain Bridge.
The central section of Pest houses many of the better hotels, art galleries, antique shops and Parliament where the Holy Crown and Crown Jewels rest in the main domed hall.
Hike over a bridge to Margaret Island, which is a beautiful wooded parkland that splits the Danube, for a quiet afternoon among nature.
While the “Beautiful Blue Danube” is decidedly earth-toned in the Budapest stretch, this “Queen of Europe’s Rivers” still inspires more poets and artists than any other water way. The river, being the center of the city, is the touch point for navigating Budapest and can usually be easily located to gain your bearings.
From the mountains of Germany’s Black Forest to the delta at the Black Sea in Romania, this is the second longest river in Europe and one of the only West/East channels on the continent. The river surges through cliffs and gorges, flows past castles and monasteries as well as rugged rural landscapes before coming to Budapest to relax. Just past the Danube Bend in northern Hungary, it widens and slows, even more so in the recent past. In the 1990’s Slovakia diverted the Danube to bring water to a hydro-electric plant which seriously staunched the flow to Hungary and caused quite a political dispute while permanently altering the environment and the river’s usage. More water has since been allowed to flow into Hungary, but the river will never be the same. Nonetheless, it remains an important commercial and transportation thoroughfare, still navigable by large ships for 1,500 of its total 1,767 miles. Cruise ships and smaller resort vessels line the moorings along the banks and amble past Budapest’s city sights as passengers gain the most romantic perspective of the city. UNESCO has even declared the central area of the city and its riverbanks a World Heritage Site for its “outstanding urban landscape.”
Hungary joined the European Union on May 1, 2004 and abandoned the Hungarian Forints for Euros.
It’s hard to miss the ochre building in the castle district that is Rivalda Restaurant. Originally a monastery, then a theatre, now a theatrically themed eatery where live music enlivens the enormous, cobbled, inner courtyard. Two inside dining rooms have jewel tone scrims draped over riggings filled with theatrical lighting instruments and ropes. Classic dishes on the menu are nicely paired with vegetarian offerings and al fresco diners are treated to great concerts of birdsong when the saxophonist takes break.
Easily the best known of all Budapest’s restaurants has to be the Opulent Gundel Restaurant and sister establishment, Bagolyvar, (The Owl’s Castle). Gundel is the special occasion dining choice for locals and visitors alike. Its international reputation since being revived by George Lang is well-deserved and each of the endless banquet and dining rooms is more opulent and grand than the next. Diners must dress for dinner, so be prepared. If weather permits, an al fresco evening under the stars is a must. Bagolyvar is Gundel’s more affordable and less pretentious neighbor, but by no means a compromise. The restaurant is staffed 100 percent by women, and shares portions of Gundel’s kitchen but the presentation here is less fussy and the menu option more hearty.
Rose Hill in Buda makes for a great afternoon stroll as it is the city’s fanciest district with prime and pricey real estate. In this hilly, tree- and garden-filled neighborhood, you’ll find Vadrozsa, a stately manor house that has been turned into one of the loveliest restaurants in Budapest. Prices are high end and the atmosphere is country formal with a beautiful garden and dining rooms. A jacket and tie would not be out of place here.
A quiet suburban neighborhood is home to a fantastic dining experience, Remiz. This is a gathering place for large groups of friends and families, crowding around tables filled with wine bottles and enjoying gargantuan portions of foods cooked on an outdoor grill.
For a quick sweet tooth fix, have a coffee and pastry at world-famous Gerbeaud. Sit in the bustling city square and watch the world go by as you tuck into any of the freshly made confections or take a seat inside among velvet curtains and crystal chandeliers.
When calling Budapest business from the U.S. dial 011-36-1 before the number. www.budapestinfo.hu is the website for the Tourism Office of the city and can be a great clearing house for planning your visit.